Car & Driver CAD-DU1000 Portable CarPlay Unit

CAD-DU1000 promotional image - front

There’s a bunch of ~ $100 Chinese devices that purport to provide a portable CarPlay solution for older vehicles. I’m sure some of them work, for a while. Some would only support FM audio, others said they’d work with an Aux input, some would do wired CarPlay but not wireless, etc.

Car & Driver has their own, too, the INTELLIDASH PRO (which is actually the CAD-DU1000 made by Summit Electronics a/k/a Summit LLC a/k/a Summit CE Group‡). I figured something so branded would probably be a better bet. But at $399 it was a bit steep, so I put it on the “someday” list. But then Amazon had a Prime sale in mid-October (2022), and the price was $349. And there were a few “Pre-Owned – Like New” options for $249. Suddenly, I had to click “add to cart.” The reviews weren’t glowing (especially at full price) but were encouraging enough:

CAD-DU1000 promotional image - 45° up and to the right

Etc.

First time powering up the DU1000 in the Wrangler

If I had the option, I’d love to install a double-DIN (or retractable screen DIN) head unit with CarPlay built in. But the stereo location for a YJ Jeep Wrangler is single DIN, over by the passenger’s knees, and doesn’t have clearance for a screen to operate even if it was in a visible, easily tapped location. So I’ve been toying with ideas for how to get a CarPlay display up higher. Radio with a remote screen? Etc. All seemed too cumbersome ultimately, until I stumbled across this device. I haven’t fully installed it yet (the mount it comes with feels pretty cheap, and while it’s probably fine for a “normal” car, it doesn’t really work for a Jeep Wrangler with a shallow dash and essentially vertical windshield). But I have a few observations so far. (The screen is not as blurry as it appears in this photo, it comes with a protector I haven’t yet removed.)

Dimensions: The main unit is a bit wedge-shaped. It’s 1.25" deep at the bottom edge, just under 1" at the top, and 4.5" tall, 7" wide (8" diagonal). It’s just under a pound at 14.4 oz.

Connectivity: It has a barrel-type power input (12V @ 3A), a USB-A port for thumbdrive use only, a USB-C port for a wired connection to an iPhone or Android phone (it comes with a USB-C to USB-C cable), a 3.5mm audio output jack (it comes with a ~4' cable), and what looks like a 2.5mm AVIN input that I believe is meant for an optional backup camera. Edit: According to an Amazon reviewer:

[I]t uses a 4 pole TRRS 2.5mm jack, like most GPS type video inputs, but with slightly different wiring. The tip is not connected to anything as far as I can tell, ring 1 is the RCA+/NTSC video signal from the camera, ring 2 needs to be +12 volts, and the shield is of course ground/RCA-. The ring 2 input can be supplied, in the case of a backup camera, from e.g. the reverse lights, or any 12v source that will indicate to the monitor when to switch to the video feed instead of android auto (so like a blind spot camera, steady 12v from the turn signal switch before it gets to the blinker). When the 12v is not present on ring 2, the camera signal is ignored, which makes it look like the connector is not working if you're used to other RCA car devices that auto-switch whenever a signal comes in.
I measured the output of the USB-C port using the Klein meter and a couple of USB-C to Lightning cables connected to my iPhone 12 Pro. The DU1000 seems to top out at roughly 5V and 1.5A, for 7.5 watts. Not amazing. (My UGreen 12V adapter is good for 12–18W.)

Per the instructions, it can output audio via a built-in FM transmitter, the Aux output, or your phone can talk directly to your car radio over Bluetooth, which is the method I chose (it lets me control the iPhone via the remote control for my stereo, the dash controls, etc., maybe even via steering wheel mounted Bluetooth controls (something to explore later).

Screenshot of iPhone showing different audio output options
Somewhat annoyingly, every time you connect the phone, you have to tap to switch the output from the speaker built into the Intellidash Pro (“CarPlay”) and over to the stereo’s Bluetooth (here, “Alpine CD Receiver”). So... Just don’t connect your phone to the Bluetooth on your head unit. It’s redundant with the DU1000 anyway, and it just causes problems (like a fight over how calls will be handled). I haven’t had to futz with settings on the phone or the DU1000 since I deleted the Alpine’s bluetooth connection from my phone.

I only have an inexact measuring tape handy (I need a caliper), but the ball that mounts in the back of the unit seems to be about 5/8" (0.625"); I found an adapter that mates a 17mm ball (0.669"), a difference of 0.44" (just a smidge over 1mm). I’m going to give that a try. I’m also inclined to try the RAM X-Grip Universal Holder for 7"-8" Tablets with Ball (RAM-HOL-UN8BU), which seems like it might hold this thing:

  • Width Range: 2.5" - 5.75" (held horizontally, the IntelliDash Pro is 4.5" ‘wide’)
  • Weight Capacity: Heavy-Duty Use: 1 lb (the IntelliDash Pro is 14.4 oz.)
  • Depth Range: .875" max (here we might have a problem, the IntelliDash Pro is a thicc unit)

For $50 I’m not wild about buying it just to see if it’ll hold. I’ve reached out to RAM, stay tuned. Edit: RAM responded: “Unfortunately we don't currently offer a holder that will accommodate a device with those dimensions.  You could potentially use the X-Grip for large phones with the tether ensuring the Intellidash Pro unit stays in place, but since you'll be overlanding, that may not hold up over time.  Our apologies that we're not able to offer a better solution for you at this time.” I’ve also reached out to Tackform regarding their Tablet Holder | Spring Loaded Grip [TF-HL-52-25]. Waiting on their response.

So for now at least, I’m going to try to do it with just ball mounts (using stuff I already have in my flight bag, as a proof of concept):

And if that doesn’t give me the secure mount I’m looking for, maybe I’ll try the RAM-HOL-UN10BU X-Grip Large Phone Holder or the ‎RAM-HOL-UN8BU MOUNTS X-Grip Universal Holder for 7"-8" Tablets with Ball. Stay tuned.

(I’m also exploring the possibility of 3D printing a RAM ball with a set of hooks to mate with the back of the CAD-DU1000 (and maybe someday 3D printing some sort of bracket to drop in over the dash pad and not rely on suction cups?). I found an STL file that looks like it’ll make a good starting point, and I think I can use Shapeways to print it? In TPU? (I know nothing about 3D printing...))

I picked up a cheap technical measuring kit from Harbor Freight (review). Now I need to learn how to use it. (How to read a vernier scale caliper. More. Spherical body.)

Edit: Tackform customer service so far appears to be the GOAT:

Image of the DU1000 back and supplied mount, found by Tackform customer service

I'm not sure if this is identical, but I did a little research and found this. Let me know if this is what the back of your device looks like:
If so, we have this SKU which may work for it:
https://www.tackform.com/products/20mm-ball-for-tpms-and-monitor

It has a 20mm ball so it would work with any of our 20mm components.

Keep in mind that the 4-prong type setup is actually a patented design and some manufacturers don't adhere to the exact specifications. We meet the exact specs but sometimes our device will be very tight depending on the manufacturer of the female end of it.

I need to measure everything, but it looks like some combination of these pieces should get me where I want to be:

I haven’t heard of Tackform before, but the few reviews I’ve found so far seem positive: Tackform Bike and Car Phone Mounts Review (“excellent build quality, grippy and secure cradles, and easy to use mounting mechanisms”); Tackform C-Fit Multi-Surface mount review: Sticky C-Fit mount holds your phone in style (“stands out from the crowd with its sticky suction cup...”) Prop Up Your Tablet With the Best Tablet Mounts (“Tackform prides itself on producing affordable yet durable items, and this heavy-duty tablet mount is built to withstand the roughest of conditions ... Durable, long-lasting design ...”)

Update: Their website promises orders received by 2 p.m. their time (Central) will ship same day. I placed my order at 11:53 a.m. California time (7 minutes before their cut-off) and sure enough, it shipped this afternoon. That’s the way to run a small (I’m assuming) business! (Or any business, really.)

The 17mm to 1" adapter installed in the receptacle plate of the DU1000
Update (11/17/2022): The BRCOVAN 1 inch / 25mm to 17mm Ball Adapter for RAM Mounts piece came in today and fits like a glove. Measuring it with the Clockwise caliper (yay digital screens and not trying to read tiny tick marks with my middle aged eyes, or fumbling with that inexpensive Harbor Freight tool) shows the smaller ball is actually 16.93 mm (0.668") and the 1" RAM ball is actually 24.69 mm (0.972").

With the RAM suction cup mount [Twist-Lock Composite Suction Cup Base with Ball RAP-B-224-1U] and a short arm [RAP-B-201U-A Composite Double Socket Arm - Short Arm (2.42 inch)] it extends just beyond the dash. It’s a little on the wobbly side when interacting with it, but that seems to be the plastic socket where it interfaces with the 17mm ball. Eliminating that socket (as with the Tackform solution above), along with having the display sit up against the dash pad, should eliminate even that. Driving around, it doesn’t bounce or shimmy and looks solid.
First attempt at mounting the DU1000 via RAM kit

The more I live with it, though, the more I’m thinking I’m going to have to run an Aux cable. Music will play through the stereo over Bluetooth but everything else (turn-by-turn directions, map / Waze alerts, etc) plays through the DU1000 speaker, which is annoying at best.

Overall so far I love this thing. It’s still wearing the screen protector while I play around with different mounting options, protection while transporting it (I won’t leave it in the Jeep in many situations, as it will easily disappear). So ignore the blurriness.
Shot of the DU1000 in use with map displayed
 
More updates: I set it up to FM broadcast on 87.5 MHz, which had some interference and had some occasional static, but in an environment as noisy as the Jeep, it was livable. I mostly wanted to see if using CarPlay for everything would work the way I expected it to (it did). Definitely need that Aux cable. I measured and ordered a 6' 3.5mm cable, and threw in a Satechi steering wheel Bluetooth controller as well. (I expect I’ll only be able to use it to skip tracks back and forward, and maybe to play/pause; volume on CarPlay is handled by the CarPlay display device. But that’s fine, that’s what I mostly use anyway.)

I reconfigured the RAM mount to position the Intellidash Pro module right up against the dash and as I anticipated, it’s very firm and stable there:
The DU1000 on a RAM mount up against the YJ dash

Update 10/20/2022: The Tackform kit arrived two days early and seems very high quality. The “monitor” mount slots right into the DU1000. Quite pleased so far. Also, the “it’s cheap enough to try, I hope it works!” Slim Hard Cube Portable Protective Case for Kindle case fits the DU1000 unit like a glove. (Wranglers are notoriously easy to steal anything from, so I want to take this thing with me as often as I can.)

All the Tackform pieces as they arrived
All the Tackform pieces as they arrived; TF-BS-161-C20, TF-AR-53-C, TF-HL-111

The Tackform mount, assembled
The Tackform mount, assembled

Next up, I want to look at maybe hanging pigtails (maybe this?) off the DU1000 that will stay connected to the 3.5mm and DC barrel jacks, to minimize wear and tear on those internal components...

Update: I’ve been living with this unit for about 2 months now, and couldn’t be happier. It’s rock solid and delivers what you expect it to. The only hiccup I’ve had was the internal speaker coming on even when I was using the Aux output. I couldn’t find a setting to turn it off, until Google found me the manual for the DU900 and I learned that, “to use the built-in speaker on your IntelliDash+, you must turn the FM transmitter to the ‘off’ position.” Being the learned genius that I am, I intuited that the inverse would be true, and sure enough, switching the FM transmitter to ‘on’ killed the internal speaker.

 

‡ Which may also be the same unit, more or less, as the Coral Vision I’ve found on eBay and Amazon and elsewhere (and likely, at least internally, more or less the same as all the doppelgangers out there).

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