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Tokyo60 (HHKB layout) assembled.
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I decided to see what all the fuss was about concerning the Happy Hacking Keyboard (
discussion), a UNIX-centric keyboard layout. $300 or so for a Topre switch board was a bit on the steep side, so instead I found ...
- A Coyote kit, “Used – Acceptable,” for $90 ($80 less than regular price) (wouldn’t have been my first choice for a colorway, but needs must, no?)
- The DROP dyesub keycaps (again, wouldn’t have been my first choice, but these were relatively cheap, already setup for a HHKB layout (albeit with “Super” instead of ♢ ⌘ for the main meta key), $46
- A set of 70 DROP (by Kailh) Halo Clear switches that I thought I would like but haven’t had a chance to really put through their paces ($43).
The kit arrived without the screws to mount the PCB to the case (DROP support was less than helpful, but I found this post that sent me in the right direction, and I’m ordering some MonsterBolts - M2 x 4mm Phillips Pan Head, DIN 7985A, Alloy Steel, Black Oxide screws for $5). DROP support “reached out to a Category Leader” to inform me the necessary hardware is (six of each):
M3 x 5mm for the case screws
M2 x4mm for the PCB screws
(Though I’m not sure that’s quite accurate. The M3 screws, which I did receive, measure 8mm tip to tip...?)
The space bar stabilizer was trashed, too, so I’ve ordered a $10 (clearance) NK_ stabilizer kit, and threw on some Baby Kangaroo switches just because (shipping will be the same, so...) Jury’s still out.
Having the arrow keys as an overlay will definitely take some getting used to. But I was already getting used to having the backspace key where it was (row 2). Fn for function keys and volume control isn’t a deal breaker. And I definitely like the space save.
Just need to get proper stabilizers, screw it all together properly, and maybe swap in different (more thoccy) switches, to see how much I really dig it.
If I do dive into the HHKB layout I’ll probably need one at home and at the office eventually. I’ve heard good things about the D60 Lite. I might add the LED diffuser to the Tokyo60, both for some lighting effects and to bring the typing height up a bit (which may require slightly longer M3x10mm screws?). Both the D60 Lite and the Tokyo60 seem like they could benefit from maybe a keyboard stand or similar way of attaching wedges or feet or something?
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About to start; Halo Clear switches; Tokyo60 kit; DROP keycaps
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The Tokyo60 PCB and other parts
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The Tokyo60 partially assembled
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My motivating companion
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Rebuilt; the Lab approves!
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Edit: March 23, 2023, all the parts I ordered came in today. Another quick typing test (this time
over 5 minutes) clocked me at 75 wpm, 97 accuracy - and this is the first time I’ve ever
really been able to give this board a proper trial. So far I’m impressed. I ordered and installed the
NK_ Stabilizers, two boxes (72 count total) of the
Gateron Baby Kangaroo switches, a bag of
these M2-0.4 4 mm screws, and these
keyboard risers (stock, the Tokyo60 sat a bit too flat for my tastes). Getting the stabilizers assembled wasn’t immediately obvious, but through inference and watching some
YouTube videos on lubing (man, do I still have a lot to learn / supplies to acquire / etc. if I really want to optimize my experience in this hobby), I got it figured out. So far, I like the Baby Kangaroo switches more than the Halo Clears, but only marginally. I really want to get a nice stiff tactile switch, thoccy or not. Like the Zealios Zilents, maybe 78g? But I kinda want a switch tester before I spend that kind of money, but they're like $25-50 (plus shipping). I have some Rose Glaciers en route, NuPhy sent out an email that they’d restocked a limited amount. Threw on the Wisteria tactile switches for the Air 75 (low profile), too, in my ongoing quest to make that board happen. (I really, really want to like it, it has a lot going for it now, with the shine through keycaps and the over-the-MacBook-keyboard form factor. I just need to be more accurate typing on it...)
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Stabilizer housing and insert
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The housing holds the insert and provides clips to hold the stabilizer bar. The insert goes into the housing with the “incline” portion (visible here in the transparent inserts in the NovelKey kit) away from the stabilizer bar. The “open” end of the insert (with room for the insert to slide up and down as the wire inclines / flattens) faces the bar:
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Close-up of stabilizer bar at an angle (insert raised)
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With this kit, the plastic tabs go through the larger holes on the PCB, and the screw receivers (metal nuts embedded in the plastic housing) then snap into the smaller PCB holes; here you can see the screws at the bottom corners, and just above them the plastic tabs poking through:
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Back side of the PCB showing the space bar stabilizer mounted
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Space bar stabilizer mounted on PCB, front side
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Top side of the PCB with all stabilizers mounted
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Rebuilding the kit:
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Ready to rebuild the kit with Baby Kangaroo switches, NovelKeys stabilizers
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Stripped down, ready to be rebuilt
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I only needed 6 (six) M4-0.4 4mm screws...
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Coming together; board inserted and screwed in
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Switches installed, re-mounting the keycaps
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Tonkyo60 with the Nillkin Keyboard Risers attached
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Angle view of the Tokyo60 with Skiidata keycaps
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Overhead view of two Tokyo60s with MT3 profile keycaps
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