GoPro in the Cockpit
After a bit of trial and error, I’ve settled on what I think is the best combination of capability and longevity when it comes to capturing my flights on video. Here's a short example clip:
My current setup consists of:
I started off with a Hero 3 White I'd picked up to take to the beach with my dogs that I'd, disappointed with its lackluster still photos, shoved in a drawer. I splurged on an upgrade to the 3+ Black after noting the disparity in recording times between the White and the Black and, digging into it, learned the Black has a noticeably better lens, higher powered processor, records at a higher bitrate, etc., all of which equates to a much sharper picture. It didn't hurt that I needed "just" the camera (none of the accessories), and found a seller on Amazon Marketplace offering just that. I was able to sell my Hero 3 White for not much less than I paid for it, and paid only a modest amount on top of that to get the "naked" Hero 3+ Black. Money well spent! (Too, scuttlebutt says the Hero 3 White is really just the old Hero (1) in a new package, plus WiFi.) If I wanted usable 4K resolution I'd need the Hero 4 Black, but (a) I don't care about 4K now, and (b) a lot of accessories for the 3/3+ don't exist, or are considerably more expensive, for the 4. As with many things, it seems the sweet spot is waiting until the next Biggest Baddest Version comes out, then swooping in and picking up the former heavyweight at a reduced price. Comparison of the 4 and 3+ Black/Silver editions.
Filters
I use the neutral density filter to drop the light coming into the camera enough for the GoPro to drop its shutter speed, which in turn cuts out most of the prop (including the weird distracting "tearing" that's otherwise present). Can't take credit for this one, I followed this guide. I used to try to dial in exactly the right combination of 0.6, 0.9, and 1.2 ND filters (1.5? 1.8? etc), but now I just use the single 1.2 ND and call it done. I might step down to the 0.9 and see how that goes. I went with 52mm so I could interchange filters with my Nikon DSLR camera (the 18-55mm kit lens is 52mm). The polarizing filter I use to cut down on reflections on the cockpit window(s).
Power and Comms
I originally used the GoPro Aircraft Cable by Nflightcam ($40, and kept as a backup) and relied simply on the GoPro's own battery. However, the recording times with the internal battery are fairly short (even shorter if you don't successfully kill WiFi after getting the polarizing filter dialed in, and the 3+ Black eats batteries quickly). So I tried a Switronix DVGP3USB GoPro 3/3+ Battery Eliminator ($19), and connected it to the plane's cigar lighter via a 12V USB adapter. Problem: If you didn't remember to shut the camera down before you kill the main switch, you could end up with corrupted video. So I added a Intocircuit 11200mAh Dual USB Portable External Battery. But I kept getting dropped video. A combination of a loose-fitting Switronix plug, a loosely connecting female USB plug on the Intocircuit, and the Switronix just being overall kind of loose and unreliable (in the camera itself). I settled on using the internal battery, charging it in flight with the Nflightcam audio/power cable (even though heat becomes something of a factor; in 1080p/30 mode, with the camera naked in the 'frame' case, it's never been a limiting issue), hooked up to the Poweradd, which is a little tighter and takes up less cockpit (pocket) space than the Intocircuit. Plus, the Poweradd (at 5000 mAh) plus the internal 1200 mAh Wasabi battery, is good for about 10 hours(!) of non-WiFi 1080p/30 recording, about 3 hours more than will fit on the largest capacity microSD card the GoPro will accept. That's a range far beyond my time-between-rest-stops, and approaches the single-shot range of a Piper Cherokee at a very conservative cruise speed ... I like the combination of the smaller, more tightly fitting battery and the internal camera battery; it allows for a "loosely coupled" install where even if the external power connection gets jostled, the camera will use its internal battery and won't drop a frame of video.
Carrying Case
If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't use my current CamKix case. I didn't realize it came pre-cut for a very specific camera configuration, which doesn't match mine. I hacked it apart with kitchen knives and reassembled it with Crazy Glue, and it now works fine, but it's ugly. I wanted a very small case that would fit my flight bag, and this does that. I used to use a larger carrying case with a customizable interior, but when I upgraded to a better headset, it wouldn't all fit in my flight bag.
My current setup consists of:
- GoPro Hero 3+ Black
- CamKix Frame Mount ($19; I went kind of cheap on this one, 'cause it's just a simple piece of plastic)
- GoPro Suction Cup Mount ($30; there are cheaper alternatives, but they're not recommended; this thing is sturdy and GoPro official...)
- Wasabi 1200mAh batteries ($17 for two, including a charger)
- Nflightcam GoPro Hero Aircraft Audio/Power Cable ($40; captures headset (intercom and radio) audio, and charges the battery)
- GoPro Hero 3 52mm Filter Adapter BlurFix3 Micro 52 ($34; allows 52mm camera filters to be mounted to the 'naked' GoPro)
- Tiffen 52mm 1.2 ND filter, part of the Tiffen 52mm Digital Neutral Density Filter Kit ($45, but can probably get just the 1.2 ND filter cheaper)
- Hoya 52mm alpha Circular Polarizer Filter ($30)
- CamKix Carrying Case ($14)
- Poweradd Slim2 5000mAh external battery ($12) and a generic micro USB cable I had lying around (equivalent; $5)
- Transcend TS-RDF5K USB 3.0 Card Reader ($7; one of the few I've found that will work properly with a 64GB microUSB card)
- SanDisk Ultra 64GB UHS-I/Class 10 Micro SDXC Memory Card ($27)
- CamDesign 52MM Snap-On Front Lens Cap/Cover ($6; lets me leave the filters attached to the GoPro, saves a bit of time getting everything setup in the cockpit)
- Mediabridge High Output Dual USB Car Charger ($10; backup charging capacity just in case, 1.0 and 2.1A outlets)
Why...
CameraI started off with a Hero 3 White I'd picked up to take to the beach with my dogs that I'd, disappointed with its lackluster still photos, shoved in a drawer. I splurged on an upgrade to the 3+ Black after noting the disparity in recording times between the White and the Black and, digging into it, learned the Black has a noticeably better lens, higher powered processor, records at a higher bitrate, etc., all of which equates to a much sharper picture. It didn't hurt that I needed "just" the camera (none of the accessories), and found a seller on Amazon Marketplace offering just that. I was able to sell my Hero 3 White for not much less than I paid for it, and paid only a modest amount on top of that to get the "naked" Hero 3+ Black. Money well spent! (Too, scuttlebutt says the Hero 3 White is really just the old Hero (1) in a new package, plus WiFi.) If I wanted usable 4K resolution I'd need the Hero 4 Black, but (a) I don't care about 4K now, and (b) a lot of accessories for the 3/3+ don't exist, or are considerably more expensive, for the 4. As with many things, it seems the sweet spot is waiting until the next Biggest Baddest Version comes out, then swooping in and picking up the former heavyweight at a reduced price. Comparison of the 4 and 3+ Black/Silver editions.
Filters
I use the neutral density filter to drop the light coming into the camera enough for the GoPro to drop its shutter speed, which in turn cuts out most of the prop (including the weird distracting "tearing" that's otherwise present). Can't take credit for this one, I followed this guide. I used to try to dial in exactly the right combination of 0.6, 0.9, and 1.2 ND filters (1.5? 1.8? etc), but now I just use the single 1.2 ND and call it done. I might step down to the 0.9 and see how that goes. I went with 52mm so I could interchange filters with my Nikon DSLR camera (the 18-55mm kit lens is 52mm). The polarizing filter I use to cut down on reflections on the cockpit window(s).
Power and Comms
I originally used the GoPro Aircraft Cable by Nflightcam ($40, and kept as a backup) and relied simply on the GoPro's own battery. However, the recording times with the internal battery are fairly short (even shorter if you don't successfully kill WiFi after getting the polarizing filter dialed in, and the 3+ Black eats batteries quickly). So I tried a Switronix DVGP3USB GoPro 3/3+ Battery Eliminator ($19), and connected it to the plane's cigar lighter via a 12V USB adapter. Problem: If you didn't remember to shut the camera down before you kill the main switch, you could end up with corrupted video. So I added a Intocircuit 11200mAh Dual USB Portable External Battery. But I kept getting dropped video. A combination of a loose-fitting Switronix plug, a loosely connecting female USB plug on the Intocircuit, and the Switronix just being overall kind of loose and unreliable (in the camera itself). I settled on using the internal battery, charging it in flight with the Nflightcam audio/power cable (even though heat becomes something of a factor; in 1080p/30 mode, with the camera naked in the 'frame' case, it's never been a limiting issue), hooked up to the Poweradd, which is a little tighter and takes up less cockpit (pocket) space than the Intocircuit. Plus, the Poweradd (at 5000 mAh) plus the internal 1200 mAh Wasabi battery, is good for about 10 hours(!) of non-WiFi 1080p/30 recording, about 3 hours more than will fit on the largest capacity microSD card the GoPro will accept. That's a range far beyond my time-between-rest-stops, and approaches the single-shot range of a Piper Cherokee at a very conservative cruise speed ... I like the combination of the smaller, more tightly fitting battery and the internal camera battery; it allows for a "loosely coupled" install where even if the external power connection gets jostled, the camera will use its internal battery and won't drop a frame of video.
Carrying Case
If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't use my current CamKix case. I didn't realize it came pre-cut for a very specific camera configuration, which doesn't match mine. I hacked it apart with kitchen knives and reassembled it with Crazy Glue, and it now works fine, but it's ugly. I wanted a very small case that would fit my flight bag, and this does that. I used to use a larger carrying case with a customizable interior, but when I upgraded to a better headset, it wouldn't all fit in my flight bag.
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